Archive for December, 2008

Energy Efficient Dehumidifiers — Ideas for Cutting Dampness Problems Without Spending a Fortune

Saturday, December 20th, 2008
Robin Green asked:


It seems almost everyone has basement dampness problems. Where does all that water come from?

Humidity can enter your house naturally in the air, in warm weather through open doors and windows, and through air leakage when the heat or AC is on, such as poorly sealed windows and doors, cracks in exterior wall plaster in older houses, cracks in upstairs ceilings, or attic hatches that lack proper weatherstripping. Anything that draws air out of your house, such as a woodstove, exhaust fan, or a low- or mid-efficiency furnace, will also pull outdoor air in.

So one way you can reduce moisture is to restrict the flow of fresh air, especially during humid weather.

Water can enter through your basement walls from outside. You need to direct surface water away, seal the outside of the foundation, improve drainage below the foundation, and you may even need to seal the inside of the masonry wall as well.

Aspects of your own daily life such as breathing, sweating, showering and cooking, can also create moisture when the house is closed up. The daily activities of inhabitatns can add as much as 20 gallons of water a day to your house.

Rain collecting in your driveway, or pouring out of an eaves trough, makes its way downhill. If the soil is porous around your foundation, or if there is a gap between the pavement and the house, the water will percolate through the ground or the crack until it meets the water table or is otherwise halted. Once it can’t flow down, it flows across, which is when it starts seeping through your foundation walls.

So keep surface water away from the walls of your house. Keep eaves troughs cleaned out and properly angled, and downspouts in working order with their outflow running away from the house. Your driveway should slope away from your house, or you can run a line of mortar along the gap between the driveway and the house to keep water that accumulates in the driveway from working its way down along your foundation walls.

Gardens, lawns, and other surfaces should also draw water away from your home, and if you have a sump pump it should drain far from the house as well.

Protecting your basement from groundwater is a bit more challenging and can be expensive. A basement contractor can dig a trench to your foundation walls from outside, and apply a sealant to the exterior below-ground walls. They should also backfill the trench with gravel and sand to improve drainage, and they can put in drainage tile at the bottom to draw groundwater down below the floor of your basement.

A more affordable option, if you have exposed masonry in your basement, is to scrub down the masonry to a hard, clean surface free of grit or mineral sweat, and use a parging compound to add waterproofing on the inside of your walls. This works for minor humidity problems but won’t solve serious basement moisture problems.

Any moisture you can avoid producing indoors will help cut down on humidity problems. You can’t stop breathing, but you can cook with lids on, and turn on the range hood when boiling water; you can cut back on showers or run the bathroom fan when showering; and be mindful of aquariums, decorative fountains, and other possible humidity sources.

If winter humidity is a problemIf you have humidity problems in the winter and your home is recently built and well insulated, it is possible that your home is sealed too well. A well sealed home cuts your heating costs, but if it’s too well sealed moisture will build up, as will off-gassing from synthetics, woods, carpets, and other materials that may harm your health. You might consider buying a heat exchanger rather than a dehumidifier if this is your problem. Heat exchangers let air flow in and out of your house, while keeping the heat in as the exhaust air is blown out.

Before go out and buy a dehumidifier to solve moisture problems that can’t be solved by the tips above, you should understand how humidifiers work, their rankings, how ENERGY STAR dehumidifiers are ranked, and how to choose the best model for your situation.

Dehumidifiers remove moisture from the air using a compressor, condenser coils, and fan. They work the same way a refrigerator works, except that their cooling power is used to condense water out of the air. Dehumidifiers have a humidistat that keeps them on until the moisture reaches a set lower level, or until the tank fills up, whichever happens first.

Dehumidifiers are grouped based on extraction capacity — how much humidity they extract from the air per day — and by tank capacity — how much water they hold. In the United States, extraction capacity is rated in pints per day and capacity is measured in quarts. In most other countries, extraction capacity is rated in liters per day and capacity in liters.

Once your tank fills up, the dehumidifier will not extract any water from the air until you empty the tank. If you place your dehumidifier near a basement floor drain, you can run a hose from the tank to the drain, so that you never need to empty the tank. (Most dehumidifiers come with an opening for a hose.) If you can’t do this in the room where you’re putting the dehumidifier, make sure you buy a unit with adequate tank capacity.

The energy factor for dehumidifiers is the number of liters or pints of water removed from the air per kilowatt hour (kWh) of electricity used. The higher the energy factor value, the more efficient the dehumidifier is.  So bigger is better — unlike the efficiency rankings for most other types of appliances.

ENERGY STAR dehumidifiers have energy factors ranging from 3.56 (excellent) to 1.2 (marginally efficient) with a median rating of 1.62. Only two companies, Therma-Stor Products and Munters Corporation, make dehumidifiers with an energy factor better than 2.2.

But bear in mind that an ENERGY STAR rating does not mean the dehumidifier is all that efficient — just more efficient than some others in its class. For example, ENERGY STAR rated dehumidifiers can have an energy factor of as little as 1.2, while the best score is 2.02 and the worst for a non ENERGY STAR dehumidifier is 1.0.

Always buy a dehumidifier that can handle the amount of humidity in your house. You probably do not require a pints-per-day rating above 25 unless your basement is sopping wet and at least 1,200 square feet in area, wet and at least 1,500 square feet, or usually damp and mildewy (but not wet) with at least 1,800 square feet.

On the other hand, ENERGY STAR units that can withdraw more moisture are typically more energy efficient because of the different capacity thresholds used to rate dehumidifierS. So don’t skimp and buy too low a capacity unit — overestimate rather than underestimate.

If your basement is very cool, buy a dehumidifier built to handle lower temperatures. Otherwise, the cold basement will cause frost buildup on the coils, which reduces their efficiency and may cause the motor to short cycle. If notice this short cycling, turn the dehumidifier off until the ice has melted and fallen into the tank. If the behavior persists you may need to replace the unit with a unit built for cooler temperatures.

Assuming you do own or buy a new dehumidifier, you’ll want to reduce your energy costs with whatever dehumidifier you own.

If your basement is humid, and the dehumidifier is on, keep the doors to the basement closed so damp air doesn’t creep in from upstairs.

Keep your dehumidifier coils and fan clean and free of dust. Some dehumidifiers include a washable air filter you can clean to get rid of dust build-up; if you have one, keep it clean.

If you replace an old dehumidifier with a new, properly sized energy efficient dehumidifier, and you tackle your moisture sources as best you can, you could reduce your electricity use by half or even two thirds over what you were paying before for the same level of comfort. But more likely, you’ll use a little less energy with a new and improved dehumidifier, while controlling your humidity more effectively, or you’ll use more energy (if you didn’t have a dehumidifier) but you’ll be far more comfortable and won’t be spending a fortune on electricity.

With all the news surfacing about the health effects of indoor dampness and the resulting mold and mildew, you’ll definitely benefit from addressing your humidity problems and buying an energy efficient dehumidifier. You’ll save money and be healthier.



Biodiesel Production Companies

Thursday, December 18th, 2008
Munya Chinongoza asked:


There are many companies around the world that are involved in the production of biodiesel. The Biodiesel Company which is privately owned is one of them. The Biodiesel Company has many years of experience in the fields of sales and distribution. Based in Toronto Canada, The Biodiesel Company collects and renews fuel from the waste of cooking oil, non vegetable oils and also related feed stocks and then process them into biofuel.

When they are finished the product is then marketed. This company is always looking for new joint ventures and wants to expand from the Toronto area. They are currently working with researchers for new technology in biodiesel and its production so that only the best quality maybe available for sale on the market.

Grease Brothers make their biodiesel from vegetable oil and change it into fuel, the ultimate biodiesel guide is a company that sells instructions on how to make biodiesel so that you will be able to heat your home. Tree Hugger is a new biodiesel company that produces biodiesel through algae which has been found to be a more efficient way to make fuel. They found that algae can produce 30 times more oil per acre then the current crops that companies use do.

Other biodiesel companies include Agra Biofuels which produces over 3 million gallons of biodiesel every single year. Bently Biofuels, produce biodiesel from the oils of seeds and restaurant grease. Biodiesel production companies are the new solution to the rising prices of fuel. The fuel can be used in any diesel without having to convert it which makes it quick to Descente grate.

The majority of biodiesel production companies use canola oil. The majority of companies make it so that biodiesel meets regulatory specifications so that it can be certified for use in the engine. Although there are many companies, most use the same materials to produce biodiesel. These companies are a savior to the environment.



Do You Know Your Fuel Ejection System’s Health Depends a Great Deal on the Diesel Fuel Lubricity?

Sunday, December 14th, 2008
Juan Giblin asked:


With the emission norms getting stringent all over the world, the lubricity issue has become a major challenge for all concern. These norms specify the acceptable levels of parts per million of Sulphur as well as aromatic contents. In order to benefit the environment from getting polluted and with the global warming becoming a major issue, a significant reduction of PPM of Sulphur and aromatic contents has been the need of the hour. But when these stringent measures are complied with, yet another challenge surfaces the diesel users. The problem of diesel fuel lubricity arises with the lowering of these contents in the fuel and this loss of diesel lubricity results in wear and tear of fuel system component. The easiest way for the refinery companies to decrease the content of Sulphur and aromatic contents is by the way of hydro treating, in this process the Sulphur is removed by treating it with hydrogen. But this process results in loss of lubricity. The major impact of loss of diesel fuel lubricity is that it speeds up the process of fuel system component wear.

In this alarming scenario, many problems have been witnessed, such as, under-run, stalling problems which require replacement of fuel pumps due to their failure. In order to overcome these problems fuel additives are being recommended. But identification of potential problems can be done only through lubricity test. This testing is a specialist’s job and who else can be better that the market leader in this field i.e. Imperial Scientific Industries. We have the best lubricant testing equipment and our results match global standards. Our services too are very reasonable and competitive. We offer a host of facilities along with diesel lubricity testing all the details are available at our website.

We have a long list of clientele and these people vouch for our quality services. We have been able to test, identify and help our clients with their lubrication pumps. These tests have helped them in reducing a great amount of costs by indication potential problems before hand. Our tests are also helpful in healthy maintenance of the systems of our clients resulting in lesser losses due to shut downs. The resultant cost efficiency ultimately increases your profitability.

Our range of services in Tribology and Petroleum Test Equipment are unmatched, you need not have to search further because of exhaustive nature of our facilities and can be assured of quality testing and in depth analysis of the test results by our panel of experts. These experts not only identify the problem areas but also suggest remedies which when implemented timely result in reduction of losses to your fuel system. We give specialized attention to all our esteemed clients and believe in long term relationship with them. No doubt they are pillars of our strength and their trust in us results in themselves getting back to us in face of any challenge. We welcome you to grace our list of clients and are looking forward to serve you.



Achieving Mood Lighting and Saving Energy - are Fluorescent Lights Dimmable?

Friday, December 12th, 2008
Robin Green asked:


Dimmer switches can give a more relaxed feel to your home, and save you energy as well. But with the increasing prevalence of compact fluorescent lights or CFLs, many people are wondering what options they have for using a dimmer with these lights - or whether it saves more electricity to use a regular CFL, or to use incandescent or halogen bulbs on a dimmer switch.

Let’s start by putting to rest some misconceptions people have over the relative energy use of fluorescent, incandescent, and halogen bulbs.

Many homeowners put in halogen bulbs, starting in the 1990’s, on the mistaken idea that these lights are more efficient than incandescent lights. In fact their energy efficiency is pretty much the same as that of incandescents. So don’t think you’re saving energy by using them.

CFLs, meanwhile, are very efficient - it takes about one fourth as much electricity to light up a CFL as to light up an incandescent or halogen lamp with the same light output. They also happen to last about eight times longer than incandescent lights.

So if you are using a dimmer primarily to save power, you might be better off just switching your incandescent or halogen lights to CFLs, and keeping the dimmer switch on full, or going back to a standard on-off switch. That will give you more light for less power.

If you want a more mellow lighting all the time, one way is to put in light bulbs that aren’t as bright. Whether you go down from, for example, a 100 watt incandescent to a 60 watt incandescent bulb, or down from a 100 watt incandescent bulb to an 18 watt CFL, you’ll still get less light and you’ll use less electricity. Of course, the CFL solution will save you much more electricity in the long run.

But chances are you want the best of both worlds: the low running cost and better durability of CFL bulbs, with the flexibility to dim them when you don’t need their full light.

You may have heard that you cannot put a regular CFL on a regular dimmer switch. In fact you can, but it is not recommended, because it can really reduce the life of the bulb. There is no increased risk of explosion or fire from installing a regular CFL on a standard dimmer switch - you’ll only increase the risk of shortened bulb life. And since the higher price of CFL bulbs is offset by the fact that they outlive incandescent bulbs by a ratio of 8 to 1, putting regular CFLs on a standard dimmer destroys that cost advantage.

If you choose to dim CFLs, you have two real options: buy a special dimmer switch that is compatible with CFLs, or buy dimmable CFLs that are designed to work with standard dimmers.

Both choices leave you with the energy-saving advantages of CFLs, as well as the ability to dim those CFLs. But for now at least, dimmable CFLs seem like the more affordable option, because fluorescent-compatible dimmer switches are prohibitively expensive, while the price difference between standard and dimmable compact fluorescents is miniscule.

Let’s consider the total cost for both options, for a fixture with three 60-watt light bulbs. Let’s assume you already have a standard dimmer switch and regular incandescent light bulbs. If you want to upgrade to CFLs, your choices are:

1. Installing three 13-watt standard CFLs at $3 a piece, and a $49 fluorescent dimmer switch. Total cost: $58.

2. Going for three 13-watt dimmable CFLs at $3.50 a piece, and use the existing dimmer. Total cost: $10.50!

As you can tell, using an existing dimmer switch is a more affordable alternative. Since both options use the same amount of energy, in terms of payback period the solution with dimmable compact fluorescent lights is definitely much shorter.

Even if you need to buy a dimmer switch because you don’t have one, it still makes sense to go with a standard switch and dimmable CFLs. You can get a standard dimmer switch for under $10. Even a fashionable one for $25 is more affordable than a fluorescent dimmer at $49. And with the cost gap between standard and dimmable CFLs so small, the only way a fluorescent dimmer switch will be cost competitive is if its price drops substantially, which it probably will over the coming years.

If your only motive for using a dimmer switch with CFLs is to save money, and you don’t already have a regular dimmer switch, I would suggest you stay with basic CFLs and forego the dimmer switch. Use the money you save on the dimmer switch to buy more CFLs for other areas of your house. Dimmer switches resulted in major savings for incandescent or halogen fixtures because the bulbs were so wasteful. For example, my rec room has six 50-watt bulbs on a dimmer switch. By using the dimmer at about half power, we use 150 watts instead of the full 300 watts. Assuming an hour on each day, that would save 150 x 365 watts, or 55 kilowatt hours a year.

But if we were to switch those halogen bulbs to 13-watt dimmable CFLs, we’d save 81 kilowatt hours a year at their full strength. By turning them down to half, we’d only save an extra 13 kilowatt hours a year - that’s about $1.30 worth of electricity. Not really enough to make it worth considering this alternative.

Consumer response to dimmable CFLs has been less than overwhelmingly positive. There were certainly some teething issues with these lights - early burn-out, flashing light, and loud buzzing noises. These problems have been pretty much resolved in the more recent dimmable compact fluorescents. But if there isn’t a strong motivation for you to dim your CFLs, I would recommend sticking with standard compact fluorescents for a year, until the market offers a wider range of choices for dimmable fluorescent lights. Who knows - in a year or two, fluorescent dimmer switches could be as cheap as standard dimmers.



Build a Windmill Your Own and Start Producing Green Energy

Friday, December 12th, 2008
Abhinav Sidana asked:


If you are looking for some information on how to build a windmill, you can find it here and at the same time if you decide in favor of putting your own windmill in the backyard of your house, you will be doing tremendous job to improve our environment. You can build a windmill your own like many other people’s do and can start nurturing our environment by reducing the pollution caused by conventional electricity being produced by large coal, gas or nuclear power plants.

Building a windmill does not require you to be an engineer or a physicist, however if you can follow simple steps as provided below, you can build a windmill your own and can start producing green electricity. You will not only save your hundreds of dollars per month, but you will also contribute to the environment by making it safe for our next generation. If you build a windmill, you can have a potential of saving huge electricity bills up to the tune of 80 percent per month especially if you get sufficient wind in your area.

If you have decided to build a windmill, you will need to know the details of raw materials required for your windmill generator. Getting a readymade windmill generators from the market is a costly option and you should avoid it as it might cost you above $2000 dollars, however if you build a windmill your own you will have to spend a mare $200 on raw materials and other accessories and can start producing electricity in less than 10% of the market price.

You should prefer to build a windmill with the help of easy step-by-step instructions available at Internet in the form of a guide and once you go through the guide, you can do the job yourself.



Think Outside of the Box

Thursday, December 11th, 2008
David Tanguay asked:


In today’s world of eco-friendly inventions, the electric car is getting its fair share of exposure. Not only are gas prices at an all-time high right now, but the fuel emissions that emanate from petroleum juiced engines cause a breakdown in what we desire to be clean air. An electric car emits absolutely no emissions due to the lack of a tailpipe, as well as zero evaporative dischargefrom a fuel system.

The invention of the electric vehicle has been around for a little while, and the sophistication of the design keeps getting better. Options include anything from a car that affords the driver a short trip to the local grocery store, to the types that look like your run of the mill vehicle and allows for a considerably longer excursion.

So, beside the characteristics already mentioned, what are the benefits of owning and driving an electric vehicle? Let’s reiterate the fact that electric cars do not emit poisonous toxins into the air we also have to breathe. If more people drove these types of vehicles, we could, as a whole, reduce the carbon dioxide levels in the air. For those who don’t know what the effects of carbon dioxide are, let me tell you. Quite simply, carbon dioxide adds to the global warming effects we currently experience because of the years of exposure the air has succumbed to from the many different toxins being emitted.

In addition to the advantages we will obtain if we reduce the levels of carbon dioxide in the air, we will also reduce some of the cancer risks that we, unfortunately, currently see a great deal of. Beside carbon dioxide, a toxic pollutant called benzene is seen in petroleum. Benzene has many ill effects. On top of a recognized cancer risk, benzene can cause breathing disorders and dizziness when an individual encounters a high level of contact. An increase in electric vehicle drivers will allow for the levels in the air of this impurity to be diminished.

As stated above, many electric cars have been, and continue to be, marketed for ecological purposes. In fact, GE has invested a total of $24 million into its new Th!nk electric car. GE will be revealing this vehicle for the first time at the Geneva Auto Show, which started March 6th and will go until March 16th. Weighing in at only 350 kilograms, this car will likely be able to see speeds of around 85 MPH.

The dynamic of the engine will charge the battery, allowing the Th!nk to travel about 280 miles before having to be recharged. GE alleges that the car will go from 0-60mph in eight seconds.

Obviously the Th!nk is not going to be entering into any drag races or the Indy 500, but it is well equipped for the necessities of city driving. The main advantage, as with all eco-friendly cars, is the lack of toxins that are being sent up into the air. One more option to make the world a greener place!



Will Barack Obama Change the Face of the US Green Economy?

Monday, December 8th, 2008
New Energy World Network asked:


With the US on the brink of change following Barack Obama’s historic triumph in the presidential election, those in the clean energy space were left considering what this would mean for the US’ burgeoning green economy. In a web video released last week for the Bi-Partisan Governors Global Climate Summit, the President-elect pledged new leadership to address global climate change.

In the speech, posted on YouTube, Obama reaffirmed his positive intentions, stating that there are few challenges facing the world today that are more pressing than tackling climate change.

Obama said, ‘Climate change and our dependence on foreign oil, if left unaddressed, will continue to weaken our economy and threaten our national security.

‘My presidency will mark a new chapter in America’s leadership in climate change that will strengthen our security and create millions of new jobs in the process,’ he added.

In the speech, he reiterated his pre-election plan to invest $150bn over the next ten years to catalyse private efforts to build a clean energy future, and the need to implement clear steps to propel the US to a leading position in terms of new energy resources.

His pledges included establishing annual targets to reduce emissions to their 1990 levels by 2020 and reduce them by an additional 80 per cent by 2050.

‘We will invest in solar power, wind power and next generation biofuels. We will tap nuclear power while making sure it is safe and we will develop clean coal technologies,’ he said in the speech.

For decades, the US has been the world’s largest petroleum consumer. However, a recent report from the Energy Information Administration (EIA) estimated that 58 per cent of all petroleum consumed by the US in 2007 was imported. The long-term implications of this situation were something that Obama appears keen to address. The proposed $150bn investment into homeland energy sources would seem to reflect this commitment.

Obama continued, ‘This investment will not only help us reduce our dependence on foreign oil, making the US more secure, and will not only help us bring about a clean energy future saving the planet, but it also will help us transform our industries and steer our country out of this economic crisis by generating five million new green jobs that pay well and cannot be outsourced.’

Obama also plans to introduce the Cap and Trade Program to Reduce Greenhouse Gas Emissions, which seeks to reduce carbon emissions by the recommended 80 per cent below 1990 levels, by 2050. Through this programme, all pollution credits will be auctioned with approximately $15bn of revenue per year going towards the development of clean energy. In a bid to limit dependency on foreign resources, this $15bn will be reinvested into domestic basic research, technology demonstration and aggressive commercial deployment and clean market creation.

Such a massive commitment would surely pave the way for new investment and future innovation as both industries and individuals clamour to meet this target.

The recent volatility in the price of oil and ensuing record highs have thrust the theme of alternative energy firmly to the fore, with investors paying increasing attention to the sector. In terms of venture capital alone, private investment in the renewable energy space topped $2.6bn in 2007.

The overriding theme in the industry is that the change of leadership will be a positive force.

Jim Pettit of clean energy-focused private equity firm Navitas Capital, believes that despite the financial crisis sweeping the globe, Obama will still play a pivotal role in the expansion of renewable energy. ‘While President-elect Barack Obama is poised to inherit a ton of problems across every dimension of his presidency, we look for the Obama administration to become a strong advocate for a wide array of clean technologies.

‘As a result of policy at the federal level, we believe that Obama sees an enormous opportunity to simultaneously stimulate the economy and improve the environment for future generations,’ he added.

Obama’s policies, however, do raise the question as to whether a critical change can really be implemented and whether the legacy of the past eight years of a Bush presidency can be significantly altered.

Amidst a flurry of economic woes, some have argued that it would be a mistake to place climate change at the top of the agenda in a time of financial difficulty and instability. However, many in the industry feel that the economic downturn will have little long-term effect on renewable energy and clean technologies, reinforcing the profile of this sector as a long-term prospect.

Another challenge facing Obama is that the US must acknowledge that it requires the support of emerging countries such as India and China if it is to make a significant dent in the global carbon footprint.

The Kyoto Protocol calls for developed countries to slash their emissions by five per cent by 2012, yet scientific research suggests that emissions requires an 80 per cent reduction by then if climate change is to be significantly tackled. With even Kyoto’s requirements looking a daunting prospect, Obama faces a stern challenge.

Indeed, Obama himself recognises that the US alone cannot solve this pressing concern. While he acknowledged that it was time for the US to set the precedent, he added that countries such as China and Brazil would have to follow suit with their own binding commitments. To that end, Obama, alongside Vice President-elect Joe Biden, has pledged to re-engage with the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change and bring all the major emitting nations together to develop effective emissions reductions efforts.

With the US known for its unashamedly consumer lifestyle, Obama understands only too well how crucial it is to tackle the issue of energy consumption if the new administration is to show a deep commitment to change. To this end, fuel economy standards are set to increase by four per cent each year while one million hybrid cars are expected on the road by 2015.

The next president expects ten per cent of all electricity to be derived from renewable sources by 2012. With Barack Obama yet to step into the White House, we can only speculate whether his goals will be realised. It remains to be seen whether the US can lead the way in the world’s efforts to tackle climate change.

Copyright © 2009 newnet



Save Cash by Making Your Own Natural Energy

Monday, December 8th, 2008
Max Loodlin asked:


How nice would it be to save hundreds of dollars every month on your energy bill? Sounds pretty nice right. Believe it or not you can start saving hundreds in only two days time. How? Making your own natural energy.

Rather than having to rely on your energy company for power, you can create your own for less than $50. The two most reliable ways of doing this is creating a solar panel and wind power generator. Although the task sounds pretty daunting, it really is quite simple.

While you can spend thousands of dollars on having a solar panel or wind power generator professionally installed, it is much cheaper to do it yourself. You will still see the same results as a professional unit, but you’ll be paying a whole lot less.

There are many different guides around the internet that claim to offer you the best directions for building your own renewable energy source, though few are reliable. The market of green and renewable energy is growing fast and many companies are trying to capitalize on the success of this market. This is why you need to act fast, and do research before investing in a green energy guide.

While it may be somewhat difficult to find a reliable green energy guide, the rewards are definitely worth it. Within a month you will be saving 80% on your energy bill and your green energy system will have already payed for itself. There is even a chance that you could be earning money from your energy company depending on how much energy your system is producing!The possibilities are endless!

Remember, this market is growing incredibly fast. This is why you need to act fast if you want to create your own natural energy source. You will be glad you did.

Want to save yourself hours of researching for the most reliable green energy guide? Click the link below for more information about a reliable guide to making your own natural power.

http://www.squidoo.com/howtomakenaturalpower

 

 



Saving Energy Through Energy Efficient Curtains, Shades, and Other Window Coverings

Monday, December 8th, 2008
Robin Green asked:


If your windows are ancient and aren’t doing a passable job of keeping heat inside your home in winter (or keeping it out in warm weather), maybe it is time to consider having new, energy saving windows put in. But new windows, especially good quality energy efficient ones, can be prohibitively expensive. This means that it can take a long time for them to pay for themselves in energy savings. For the amount of cash you would pay to replace the windows in a single big room, you can achieve almost the same energy savings with some basic weather stripping and by using energy efficient window coverings to eliminate heat transfer between your home and the out of doors.

Let’s first review how windows keep the cold out in winter, and the hot out in summer. Windows reduce heat transfer in three ways: convection, conduction, and radiation.

Windows stop or reduce convection airflow between a room and the exterior, blocking heat from passing through the window along with the airflow. A leaky window, or one with cracks in the glass or broken putty, allows air through these openings, so heat gets out in winter, and heat sneaks in during hot weather.

Even the thinnest sheet of glass has some insulating properties, but if the glass is double-glazed and the space between the panes is an inert gas such as argon, the panes provide extra insulating value, which reduces heat transfer through conduction. Conduction is the type of heat transfer that causes the metal handle of a pot to heat up when you boil water in the pot; so you can imagine that a metal window frame, if not properly built, can conduct a lot of heat. Although you can’t readily add extra glass panes to a window, there are other techniques to create extra still air spaces between the window glass and the room, which will increase insulation and reduce conduction transfers.

Radiation, the third type of heat transfer, usually happens when sunlight in the infrared spectrum travels through windows, heating the air inside, or when infrared radiation inside the room radiates out through the glass. Home energy auditors can actually take infrared photos of a house to illustrate where heat losses are most significant, and windows are often among the greatest sources of heat escaping from houses in winter.

How does knowing about heat transfer through convection, conduction, and radiation help you cut energy losses through your windows?

The first issue to tackle is convection. If your windows have broken panes, get them repaired. If you still have the old wood-framed windows with putty holding the glass in, check the pane for any peeling or missing putty. It’s fairly straightforward to pry cracked putty out with a putty knife and put a fresh layer on in its place. If the wood of the window itself is rotten, or if the glass is hard to get out for replacing, you may not be able to avoid getting new windows, but if you can cut the minor air leaks, you’ll have accomplished a lot towards minimizing energy losses and should feel some relief in your heating and cooling bills.

You might be surprised to know how much heat can travel out of a house in winter through the wood trim around a window. Just wait for a really cold day, put all the exhaust fans on in your house( kitchen range vent, bathroom exhaust fans, etc.), and run your fingers along the edges of window and exterior door trim on the inside of rooms. Anywhere you feel cold air coming in, you have a draft that should be sealed. It probably doesn’t hurt to run a thin bead of clear or white caulking around window and door frames to cut this convection heat transfer.

The final thing to try to minimize convection heat losses is to use tape-on or Zip-Loc type window kits to close off any windows that are very drafty, or windows that really should be replaced but that can’t be replaced because of your budget (or because you are renting the place). These window insulation kits are a good way to rapidly cut your heating losses in winter: the kits normally come with several sheets of 3 by 5 foot clear plastic, and a roll of double sided tape. (If you have many windows to cover you should purchase a 48″ roll of the plastic and get the tape separately as you’ll pay far less than buy buying several kits.) You measure and cut plastic rectangles slightly bigger than the window, run the tape around the window frame, remove the protective tape from the double sided tape, and then place the cut plastic over the window, sealing along the tape line. Blow dry the window plastic for five minutes, and it shrinks to form a tight, flat extra pane of ‘glass’ that is practically unnoticeable. This plastic can hold its flat shape for weeks, although you may find it needs an occasional short blow dryer blast to pull up the odd wrinkle in the plastic.

The next problem you’ll want to tackle is conduction - heat being drawn through the solid materials of the window. In terms of energy saving window coverings, your goal here isn’t really to stop this conduction - you can’t usually change the materials the window is made of - but to add barrier layers between the window and the room to slow that conduction down. The plastic window insulation kits stop convection heat loss by eliminating drafts into the room, but they also eliminate conduction, by providing a layer of still air between the room and the window. A curtain can accomplish a similar task: when closed, the curtain traps a small amount of air between the curtain and the window, so that on a cold day the air behind the curtain naturally gets cold but the room itself stays cozy.

When you put curtains on a window to reduce conduction heat transfer, you need to consider convection currents within the living area. Hot air rises, and cold air falls, so if you install curtains you should ensure that the air currents are blocked, preferably at both the top and bottom of the curtain or blind. Otherwise, in cold weather, the cold window will cool the air between the window and the window covering, and that colder air will fall down onto the floor, drawing warm air from above the window covering down in front of the window in a continuous cycle. In summer, the flow runs backwards, with the air between the curtain and the window warming from sunlight, flowing up out the top opening, and drawing cool room air up towards the glass where it gets heated.

You can stop these air flows by having the window covering flush with the wall at the top and bottom, or by having the bottom touch the floor and by closing in the curtain rod area at the top.

If you have cloth blinds that cover the window frame, you can use Velcro tabs along the sides of the blinds that you then press into Velcro tape along the window frame; this completely seals the air space between the window and the blind, providing an excellent insulation barrier. Cloth blinds as well as curtains can use a similar technique but with magnetic tape in the fabric, and metal along the framing, so that the window covering sticks to the walls on either side of and below the opening.

Another method you can try to add an insulation barrier to conduction through the window is to buy cellular blinds, which are made in a honeycomb or cellular cross section, or other blinds that incorporate a hollow space within the blind (for example, air-foil shaped blinds). Cellular blinds when fully retracted take up almost no space and the cells are empty; when extended, they can add insulating value from R-2 (for single-cell blinds) to R-5 (for double-cell).

Window blinds can help address the third type of heat transfer, radiation, by preventing heat from radiating across the window pane (into the house from sunshine in summer, and towards the outside from the radiant heat inside in winter). The most effective blinds use light, reflective colors on the outside, so that sunlight is more or less completely reflected away from the room. Good blinds can reflect enough solar energy away from the window to reduce heat transfer by up to 45%, but they do very little to the R-value of the window, so have little effect in winter.

Roller shades, which have a spring mechanism and can be pulled up or down (we used to call these blinds when I was young) are a great barrier against radiation, and also provide good insulation to reduce convection air flows around the window that lead to conduction losses through the pane or frame. Roller shades, because they are placed so close to the glass, are better at reducing convection currents, especially if their sides and bottom are attached to the window frame (for example, by using side tracks). Unsecured shades can cut heat exchange by as much as 28%, while secured-edge shades cut it up to 45%. Shades that can be reversed, with one side dark and the other light, are ideal, because the light side can reflect the heat where you want it (outside in summer, inside during winter).

Awnings and overhangs are a good way to cut direct light from entering a room and heating it up in summer. Because the solar angle is lower in the winter, these window coverings only block the sunlight you don’t want, letting the lower-angled winter sun warm your home.

Storm windows - which are found on many older homes - can be up to 50% more energy efficient than single-pane windows, provided the storms are sealed against drafts. So if you have old wood-framed storms sitting around in your basement or garage, you should use them each fall and take them down once winter has passed. If you have aluminum framed storms you can typically leave them up all year long; just don’t forget to close the glass during the winter.

Windows make up such a small percentage of the surface area of a home, yet they are among the biggest potential sources of energy waste in a house being heated or air conditioned. So it’s important to do anything you can to limit heat exchange through convection, conduction, and radiation. Just remember to set aside a portion of the money you save on lowered utility bills, so you can replace any worn-out, leaky windows with new, energy efficient ones when the time comes.



How to Go About Biodiesel Production

Sunday, December 7th, 2008
Muna wa Wanjiru asked:


Biodiesel production is a process of synthesizing biodiesel, it is a liquid fuel source highly compatible with petroleum based diesel fuel. Synthesis is method which is used by manufacturer, in which reaction of a glyceride containing plant with short chain alcohol like methanol or ethanol in a step called as transesterification.

The reaction which occur during this process is below,

Animal and plant fats and oil are made up of triglycerides. There are esters of free fatty acids with tryholic alcohol, glycerol. Here the alcohol is deprotonated with a base to make it stronger nucleophile. Generally in esterfication ethanol or methanol is used. From reaction one can easily find out there us no other input than the triglyceride and alcohol.

This reaction occurs very slowly or may not occur. Acid or base are used to make the reaction more quickly, also can used heat. It is very much important to not that acid or base should not be consumed by esterification reaction. Base catalyzed technique is used for most economical process which requires low temperatures and pressures. It produces more than 98% conversions yield.

Processing Steps

Purification:

If you are using waste vegetable oil, it should be filtered and remove dirt, charred food and other non oil material often food.

Water used to be removed from process because its presence causes the triglycerides to hydorlyze which gives to salts of the fatty acids. It is accomplished by heating the filtered oil approximately 120C. At this temperature any suspended water get boil off. When water gets boils, it used to spitters, so to prevent injury to container, there should be sufficiently large container, they should be closed but not sealed. In laboratory to remove water, they used drying agent like magnesium sulfate.

Neutralization of Fatty acids:

Titration of cleaned oil with standard solution of base which used to make for determines the concentration of free fatty acids (RCOOH) which is present in waste vegetable oil. Base quantity is measure which is required to neutralize the acid.

Transesterfication:

The measured quantity of base used to added slowly to the alcohol. It is then stirred until till it get dissolves. Three full equal size triglyceride are made by adding sufficient alcohol. Excess alcohol is added to complete the reaction.

The solution of sodium hydroxide is being added to a warm solution of waste oil, then the mixture is heated to process transesterification.

Workup:

After completion of reaction glycerol get sink. Emulsion used to occur when ethanol being used. It is being broken by standing, centrifugation, also by addition of low boiling, decanting, distilling. Then the top layer mixture of biodiesel and alcohol is decanted, where the excess of alcohol is distilled off or it is used to extracted through water. Biodiesel should be dried by distillation. It can also be done with the help of drying agent.

Benefits of Process

It is continuous process

It’s FAME=98.59 before washing process

It’s FAME=99.85 after washing process

It reduces space requirement

It is very low in process inventory

It require minimum manpower

Oils and fats can be produced

Reactors from 1GPM up to 500GPM are available

This process is successful for even poor quality of crude oil.